Advice on used X5 purchase

I want to purchase a 2nd hand X5 but will only be able to spend +/- R 300 000 in the process. The response I got from (non BMW ) motor owners was generally along the lines of "if you cannot really afford a new or fairly new X5 rather leave it";" you should never own a X5 that is not under motor plan"; "if you must buy a 2005/2006 X5 model then rather go for the petrol than diesel";" fitting new tyres will cost R32 000 "; etc, etc. I then decided to rather get opinions from X5 owners on this forum because you will give me informed and balanced opinions on the issue. I would therefore appreciate any comments in this regard even if it is merely to confirm that what I have already been told is more or less the way it is. If however what I want to do can be done I would appreciate suggestions as to what model(s), petrol/diesel , motorplan extensions etc.

Thanking you in advance !

Hey man, from what i know on this particular model ie X5, go for fairly new. BMW X5s are as far as i am concerned, not the worlds best 4x4. if thats what you want, expect to pay an arm and a leg for extras, that you can get standard on a fortuner/x-trail.

If you dont want it for it's 4x4(ness), then let me tell you that the cost of maintaining this thing out of motorplan in ridonkulous!

Tires, as you rightly point out are crazily priced.

Just out of interest, I searched the BMW AUC for X5's.

You can get an X5 3.0d with 85000k on the clock, manual for R285, 2006 model.


If you absolutely must have an X5, get one under motorplan, and be prepared to pay, if you want to keep it when the plan expires.
Just some food for thought.

I changed tyres on my uncles X5 4.8is about 3 months ago...4 new tyres were 65k!!! :shocked::shocked::shocked:

I fainted, regained consciousness, then wondered what happened, then saw 65k for tyres and fainted again!


:shocked: :shocked: :shocked:

19'' or 20'' runflats, i dont remember now. Was such a thrill to drive that beast but using my credit card to pay just left a very bitter taste in my mouth

Tyres aside, the same maintenance applies to almost used BMW. If you ask a stealership for prices, you better have some vaseline ready...

The E53 X5 shares most of it's components with the E39 platform, which is just about the best BMW ever built. The engines are common across the rest of the range (e.g. 3.0d is the same in the 3, 5 and 7 series). Last year, a major service (Inspection 2) cost me just over R3k at a BMW dealer. However, I now take the car to Tunetech for any issues.

If you're up in JHB, I would advise against the 3.0 petrol - the diesel is the better options. I drove both back to back a few times, before deciding to go for the diesel, as the 3.0 petrol cannot carry that big body easily (2.3 tons). If you're not concerned about consumption, go for the V8. The same maintenance issues applies to the X5 diesel as any 3.0d motor - just search this forum ...

BTW, I paid approximately R10K for a set of new 19" tyres (Toyo S/T). Kumho, Yokohama, Goodyear all make tyres in 19" at about half the price of the standard Michelins that come with the X5.

I think they are fantastic vehicles - just make sure you get the car checked thoroughly before you buy (by an independent BMW specialist). Out of MP costs are about the same as any other BMW, with the exclusion of tyres (which are actually not that bad). Just don't take your car to BMW for any work besides servicing - there's lots of independent guys capable of working on these cars.

As for extras, it's your luck when you buy 2nd hand, but standard spec was pretty decent on these cars.

10k...runflats?

Yulesen said:

10k...runflats?

Click to expand...

E53 is the previous X5 - they came with normal (non-runflat) tyres and a spare.

Also, R10k was the sport pack tyres (255 in front, 285 in the rear).

oh alright. I should have gone that way then, I just replaced them with whatever came standard...sigh...

Hi guys,

I have an E53 '04 3.0d Auto Sport pack. Lets just say I have been on the brink of "having it stolen and cutting my losses"...

It can get very bad with these cars if they are out of motorplan. I bought mine last year in May with 94 000km on the clock. The engine mounts and turbo were replaced under motorplan in June last year.

The things that cost me money so far: Tyres R18 000, CV Boots (front, all 4, done by stealers) R7 000 and then at a wheel alignment spacialist/contact to "bend" the wheel alignment right R600. Regular servicing done by stealers, approx. R5 000.

Then, there are some problems cropping up, that need to be checked/done: Sunroof faulty - approx. repair cost R38 000! and there is an intermittent power loss coming and going. Sometimes it would take ages to accelerate when overtaking other vehicles, as if it just doesn't reach its peak power.

If the gearbox goes, its approx R30 000 starting costs.

This week I had to replace the battery (was the original - and it is a 2004 model) at R1 800.

All of the above set aside, I still enjoy the vehicle immensely. Consumption since I got it (standing on 125 000km now) is 10.4 l/100km, using it in town 60% and long distances 40%.

cfroc said:

Hi guys,

I have an E53 '04 3.0d Auto Sport pack. Lets just say I have been on the brink of "having it stolen and cutting my losses"...

It can get very bad with these cars if they are out of motorplan. I bought mine last year in May with 94 000km on the clock. The engine mounts and turbo were replaced under motorplan in June last year.

The things that cost me money so far: Tyres R18 000, CV Boots (front, all 4, done by stealers) R7 000 and then at a wheel alignment spacialist/contact to "bend" the wheel alignment right R600. Regular servicing done by stealers, approx. R5 000.

Then, there are some problems cropping up, that need to be checked/done: Sunroof faulty - approx. repair cost R38 000! and there is an intermittent power loss coming and going. Sometimes it would take ages to accelerate when overtaking other vehicles, as if it just doesn't reach its peak power.

If the gearbox goes, its approx R30 000 starting costs.

This week I had to replace the battery (was the original - and it is a 2004 model) at R1 800.

All of the above set aside, I still enjoy the vehicle immensely. Consumption since I got it (standing on 125 000km now) is 10.4 l/100km, using it in town 60% and long distances 40%.

Click to expand...

You should try to take your car to a reputable independent BMW specialist if you intend keeping it after MP ... use it, don't use it.

The concept of "replace everything that may possibly cause the problem" works fine when the car is under MP. When out of MP, it's better to have someone who actually knows what they are doing work on your car.

Some quotes on my ex BMs out of MP:
I got quoted R13k to replace 2 faulty injectors at BMW - got them cleaned for sub R3k elsewhere. Got quoted R15k at BMW to fix vibration problems with my front suspension - got bushes replaced for around R1200 elsewhere ...

So yes, if you want to take the car to a BMW dealership for all your work, rather not complain about pricing :banghead:

concensus seems to be that the are expensive to maintain out of motorplan if you are not the diy type.. :clap:

netercol said:

concensus seems to be that the are expensive to maintain out of motorplan if you are not the diy type.. :clap:

Click to expand...

+1

expensive if you take it to BMW
not too bad if you are the diy type or prepared to look at other independent specialists (but this may be too time consuming for some)

in general, it's gonna cost more than a tazz to maintain, cos the tazz simply does not have stuff like electric seats and self leveling rear suspension to go wrong - i guess this applies to most cars - the more toys there are, the more things can possibly break...

My advise is to shop about 10% below your budget and keep the spare cash in case things go wrong

Tyres at mintys, 20inch on my old X5 R4500 each.

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x5 best car for everyday use, runs like a normal beemer and you dont die everytime you hit a pot hole on our excellent roads. How many times do you go off road?

@ E39er - I don't do off roading, other than the normal gravel road here and there. I went to Leo Haese's off road meeting earlier this year and there we noticed a significant power loss for some reason, as my x5 couldn't get over one steap incline where a normal 2.0d x3 did it with no sweat.

The car goes 100% on the open road, but it just doesn't reach it's full power low down in the rev range as it should. It doesn't have that hell of a pull low down.

Hi John, I bought a 2005 3.0l petrol. Its a great vehicle. And if you are smart/ weary then it's not too bad to maintain - similar to others (I have an e46 as well).
Hope you feel a bit more comfortable. I used the below checklist before I bought - it worked for me

Print the used car buyer's checklist by Samarins.com
This checklist is based on How to check a used car - detailed illustrated guide
Initially:
Any "bad" records in a VIN history report?
Any maintenance records, mileage proof?
How many previous owners?
Why do they sell a car - tired of fixing it?
Any accidents, engine, transmission repair?
Has the car passed last Emission Test?
Start with exterior.
Indications of possible problem:
Are the exterior lines not straight? Ripples? Misaligned panels?
Driver's door has free play in the hinges? Troubles to close?
Are the gaps between panels too narrow (too wide) on one side of the car?
Lots of rusty spots?
Mismatched colors? Painting over spray?
Any panel of the car seems to be repainted?
Why? Accident? Corrosion?
Trailer hinge? The car was using for towing?
Indications of possible engine problem:
Any oil or coolant leaks from the engine?
Is the engine dirty or oily?
Is the oil level low? Is the oil on the dipstick too dark?
Any indication of poor quality repair work / lack of maintenance? (e.g. badly corroded battery terminals, very low oil level, etc.)
Start the engine:
Does it work unevenly?
Any knocking, pinging, whistling?
Any smoke? (slight water steam is OK)
Any warning lights come on while the engine is running?
"Check engine" light?
Is the engine oil pressure too low at idle?
Any hesitation on acceleration?
Is the engine enough powerful?
Does it look very dirty under the oil cap?
Smell of the burnt oil under the hood?
Possible automatic transmission problems:
Any previous transmission repair? Was it rebuilt?
Does the transmission fluid smell burnt?
Is the tranny fluid on the dipstick too dark/dirty?
Start the engine and try to switch from P to D and from P to R holding the brakes -
Is the time between shifting and the moment the transmission kicks in too long?
Any strong noises or jerks?
During a test drive:
Any delays or troubles shifting?
Any shudder? Does the transmission slip or jerk harshly?
The shifting seems to be delayed?
Does the kick-down function work?
The manual transmission:
Any leaks?
Any noises while driving?
Any troubles changing gears?
Is the clutch slipping?
Any trouble to shift into reverse?
The suspension problems:
Is any of shock absorbers leaking?
Is any of the shock absorber boots broken?
The steering has notable free play?
Does the car bounces too much when you push one of the corners down?
Tires have irregular wear? (alignment problem)
Does the car sit level?
During a driving test:
Any knocking or creaking noises when driving over bumps?
Does the car pull aside? Is the steering wheel out of center?
Does the vehicle feel unstable on a freeway?
Any humming or growling noise?
The brakes. Possible problem:
Is the brake fluid container leaky?
Is the brake fluid level too low?
Brake pedal goes down to the floor? Break pedal is too soft (spongy)? Too hard? Any brake fluid leaks under the car?
Badly corroded brake lines? Brake rotors appear corroded? During the test drive.
Any brake pedal or steering pulsation while braking?
Does the vehicle pull aside while braking?
Any grinding noise?
Does the brake warning light or ABS light come on while driving?
Tires:
Any cracks, bruises?
Tread appears low?
Mismatched tires?
Damaged rims?
Vibration at high speed?
Humming noise? (uneven tire wear?)
The interior:
Is the driver seat / steering wheel worn excessively?
Dampness under the carpet or in the trunk?
Does the Radio / CD / Tape work?
Has the odometer any evidences of being tampered?
Does the air conditioner provide really cold air?
Are the power locks, windows, mirrors, sunroof, etc. working?
Are the heater, rear window defogger working?
Wind noise while driving?
Any of warning lights come on while driving?
Do you feel comfortable in driver's place?
Seats, seat belts, mirrors, controls, steering, visibility?
Spare tire, jack, wheel wrench?


www.samarins.com Illustrated help for car buyers and owners

the gearbox(auto) is usually the first to break, anything between R16500 - R36500 to repair.:hammerhead:

I wonder how tough a manual conversion would be...

zaleonardz said:

I wonder how tough a manual conversion would be...

Click to expand...

We might find out early next year (well at least on a 530d...)

Well.. the whole transfer case thing....

on the E39 I am sure it will be fairly straight forward, relatively squeeking of course, but an X....

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Actually gents.

I want to add to this one quickly.

My dad baught a fully spec'd Nissan Pathfinder 2.5 Diesel, paid 400k for a demo model in 07 or 08.

This car is on its third clutch, and it has 76k on the clock, 1k out of warentee..

You guessed it. clutch go poof.

Had the car at the dealership for 75k, dad complained that the clutch was "not right", they said they adjusted the clutch (how do you adjust a hydraulic clutch.... hmmm)

1k later, it broke down.

Nissans first reaction was, your out of warentee, your in for 21k.........

The first quote I got from an external (CBF) was 14k, and thats just a round about guess number, thats not even a rands cents quote.

We found out that this was an existing problem with the nissan range (check http://www.mynissanstory.co.za/comments.html )

After an objection letter, Nissan has agreed to evaluate the situation again, and the car is currently in for stripping...

Put this story in line with the current discussion... and draw your own conclusions...

By the way, this car has towed maybe a few times in its life, we dont own a caravan, and if its done 2 4x4 courses when my dad just got it, thats a lot. Watch them come back and say its drivers abuse....