AdiS
Well-known member
Introduction
There is a strong argument to be made that for the money, one cannot buy a better driver’s car than a BMW E46 M3. Of course, this is a matter of opinion subject to ones personal desires, but if you yearn for an exciting and engaging sports car that is naturally aspirated, rear wheel driven, with a manual gearbox, an E46 M3 is one of the best options. Fortunately and unfortunately they are all at least 11 years old now and therefore can be bought for a relatively affordable price. Do not be fooled though, as this invariable implies that you inherit a costly maintenance backlog from the previous owner(s) as they more than likely have driven the car hard and only done basic servicing and work when absolutely necessary. There are also some known areas of failure that present serious risk, and if you want to own the car you should seriously consider doing the preventative work to prevent very costly breakdowns. This guide will discuss the maintenance realities of buying and owning a used E46 M3 and how to build your expectations and budget around these realities.
[img=789x544]https://image.ibb.co/crfwt5/IMG_7203_Edit.jpg[/img]
Buying Advice
There are 2 sets of fundamentals to choose from when deciding on your purchase.
General Cost of Ownership
It’s very important not to be naive about this, and manage your expectations accordingly. The general cost of ownership is high. An E46 M3 is a performance car and it will have been driven much harder during its life as compared to a regular car. This means that wear and tear components, particularly brakes, suspension and drivetrain will need to be addressed sooner than that of say, a vanilla 3 series. Further, many of the parts are M3-specifc, so they are low volume and therefore the cost is high. This is known as the “M-Tax”.
The silver lining of this is that the risk areas of the car have been well documented so it's possible to make a calculated cost projection of what you are in for when purchasing one. Unless the previous owner has detailed records proving otherwise, you should assume that only the bare-minimum has been done to keep the car running. Part of buying the right car is piecing together the history of the car and appraising it sufficiently to understand the full scope of work needed if you go ahead with a purchase. Assuming you do things properly, the minimum you should expect to spend on a newly purchased M3 is probably around R50k, and this figure can easily become R100k.
Fundamentals to Check
The usual rules for buying any used car apply:
Key Risk Areas
For peace of mind, I strongly recommend getting the following risk areas remedied on any newly purchased E46 M3. Failures in these areas are extremely well documented and it can be considered a matter of “when, not if”.
Valve Clearances
Due to the high revving nature of the S54, the valve-train system uses mechanical rockers to operate the valves. The clearance between the rocker and the cam shafts are determined by a shim that sits on top of the valve retainer. Over time, wear on various items such as the shim, rocker, valve stem or cam results in the clearances changing gradually over time. Hence, these clearances need to be checked and adjusted. Despite it being an Inspection II service item, BMW SA dealers do not do this as it is a very labour intensive process that requires great attention to detail. Unless otherwise proven (invoice), it therefore should be assumed that E46 M3s in South Africa have not had valve clearances checked and adjusted.
This is a potential risk to the engine as it can impact engine performance and even cause damage to the engine if the clearances are far from the allowed specification. To have your S54 running smoothly and properly, it is highly recommended to have this job done. It’s a finicky process where it is easy to make a mistake, so it’s worth choosing someone who is meticulous to do this job properly.
VANOS
The BMW variable valve timing system is known as VANOS and it has several points of failure on the S54 that either degrade engine performance, or can cause catastrophic engine damage. The areas that need to be addressed are:
All possible VANOS failures in one
Beisans Systems VANOS Assessment and Solution
Broken Hub Tabs
In order to have the S54 performing at factory specification and to avoid dangerous hub tab failure, the full Beisan VANOS remedial work should be done as a de-risking measure.
Connecting Rod Bearings
The S54 was the first engine that made use of BMW M’s ‘high revving’ concept. As such, it has an intoxicating 8000rpm redline which delivers a highly exciting driving experience. Unfortunately, a consequence of this is that the connecting rod bearings inevitably wear out. This is actually the case on all of the BMW high revving engines (S54, S65, S85) as all of them experience rod bearing failure at some point.
Predicting rod bearing failure is not an exact science. Some engines make it past 200 000km with no issues, others have spun a bearing at 85000km. It has been theorized that the variation in rod bearing longevity has a lot to do with the fact that 10W-60 oil is used in the engine, and therefore the car needs to be driven very gently until oil is up to operating tempareture. Unfortunately not all owners are as sympathetic as necessary, and this could possibly account for the 'early' failure of the rod bearings. When the rod bearings fail, the outcome is often a ruined crankshaft accompanied by other damage to the engine. In most cases, a full bottom-end rebuild is required which is very expensive. In severe cases, the bearing actually “bites” and breaks the conrod, followed by a big hole to the side of the block.
Spun Rod Bearing causes head damage
One can do oil analysis, but this is only useful when done over time, as you need to compare the results and observe how they change. Blackstone Labs in the US do have recorded ’S54 wear averages’ which can be used as a benchmark for a once-off oil analysis, so that is an option too.
My personal opinion on this is that the risk begins at roughly 100 000km, and rises quickly as the mileage approaches 150 000km, after which I would say it’s a necessity. This is not to say that it is guaranteed that the bearings will fail, but the cost of changing rod bearings before they fail is far lower than repairing or replacing the engine after they fail. This in itself is a compelling argument to rather treat this issue preventatively with the added bonus of having full confidence in the reliability of the engine going forward.
“Subframe” Cracks
Additional Reading
DriveTribe - Achillies Heel: BMW E46 M3 Subframe
M3Forum: Subframe / RACP - Best Repair Tips and Tricks
Perhaps one of the most publicised and pervasive issues of the E46 M3 is that of ‘rear subframe cracks’. The name is misleading, as the rear subframe is not what develops cracks, but rather the Rear Axle Carrier Panel (RACP) to which the rear subframe is mounted. This issue is inevitable on all E46 M3s, and almost every E46 M3 already has these cracks, the owners are simply unaware. This due to the fact that (1) you need to know where to look, (2) the cracks are often hidden beneath the subframe mounts, and (3) usually when the RACP is visually inspected, an accumulation of road dirt and grime hides the early stages of RACP cracks. One needs to clean away the dirt to properly check the condition.
Here is a video from Redish Motorsport on how to check: [video=youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaTYBaMpUtE&t=9s[/video]
Unfortunately, the RACP of the E46 is just not strong enough for the high-torque application of the M3. Further, M3’s are typically driven hard which means that the RACP inevitably develops cracks. The general concensus is that once the cracks go beyond a point, the rate at which they spread increases as the RACP has become weakened. If left untreated, the damage can become so severe that the entire RACP has to be replaced.
[video=youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH1MqZ3ncMQ[/video]
Over the years, the discussion about how to fix cracks on the RACP has evolved. Initially, it was agreed that dropping the entire subframe and welding in reinforcement plates onto the bottom axle carrier panel was sufficent. When BMW finally acknowlegded the issue as part of class action settlement in the US, they either used an injection of structural foam in to the lower sections of the RACP or replaced the entire RACP. More recent discoveries have helped us understand that the issue is not simply cracks on the axel carrier panel underneath the car, but also that panel separating from the rest of the chassis.
Possible Remedies
The most recent discussions have concluded that neither the bottom reinforcement plates nor the structural foam (epoxy) are sufficient as they merely redistribute load to other parts of the RACP which then crack. Further, the top mounts that sit below the rear seat and boot floor also commonly develop cracks. Therefore the more recent consensus for a true, sustainable solution is to combine bottom reinforcement plates with a top mount repair and top mount reinforcement. Redish Motorsport are known to have the most comprehensively developed bottom reinforcement plates, and the most popular "stealth" option for top mount repair and reinforcement is the VinceBar. The VinceBar helps to improve the connection of the rear axle carrier panel to the rest of the chassis, as well as redistribute the load created by the drivetrain to stronger parts of the car.
I recommend watching a few videos on the Redish Motorsport channel to learn about the bottom side plate repair. Here are some good threads documenting the VinceBar top structural reinforcement and how it solves more recently discovered subframe / RACP problems.
The VinceBar
VinceBar Kit that doesn't require Welding
[img=789x544]https://image.ibb.co/nDpd6Q/IMG_7165.jpg[/img]
Maintenance Considerations going forward
Wear and Tear Items
Once the key risk areas are taken care, E46 M3 maintenance is similar to most other BMWs of its age. You should expect to replace several wear and tear items above 100 000km that might not be immediately obvious. Between 100k and 150k (km), you can probably expect the following:
Drive Train
Engine and Gbox Mounts
Exhaust Mounts
Constant Pressure Valve
Propshaft Flex Disc and Centre Support Bearing. If ths U-joints have developed play, then the entire prop needs to be replaced (R14k)
Gear shifter bushes
Clutch (possibly flywheel too)
Diff Seals
Accessory Drive
Belts and Pulleys
Brakes & Suspension
Brake discs and pads
Dampers (shocks and struts)
Front Lower control arm bushings
Rear trailing arm bushings
Rear trailing arm balljoints
Fluids
Engine Oil (10W-60 that meets BMW M specifications)
Brake Fluid
Coolant
Power Steering Fluid
Gearbox Fluid (BMW MTF-LT2)
Rear Differential Fluid (OEM fluid with Friction Modifier booster)
Power Steering and VANOS Hoses
This is one that is not often spoken about, but almost every M3 I have seen has sweating on the high pressure power steering hoses. These have a habit of bursting, and can leak oil on the road which could cause an accident. The power steering hose cannot be repaired due to its complex curves and most hydraulic hose repair shops do not have the jigs for the successful repair. Expensive as it is (R5k), the path is Genuine BMW only. The high pressure pipe for the VANOS external accumulator can also burst on earlier models, spraying out voluminous amounts of oil in a very short period.
Cooling System
BMW cooling systems are notorious for premature failure. The liberal use of plastic components leads to early failure of several cooling components which result in an engine overheat. In most overheat scenarios, the head gasket requires replacement, but in some cases the head could also be damaged. The weak cooling system is probably the most referenced risk area on non-M E46s, but thankfully due to the motorsport application of the M3, the cooling system is a bit more robust and reliable. From what I have seen, the waterpump and thermostat are most often replaced, but I would still considering having the radiator and pipes all replaced as well by about 150 000km. The viscous fan blade also have a habit of becoming brittle over time and exploding. If this happens, it can do serious damage to other components such as the radiator and bonnet/hood. It’s a cheap enough part to replace preventatively.
Alternator Bearings and Voltage Regulator
At some point the alternator voltage regulator and bearings will wear out, causing your battery to drain. Because the S54 is high revving, and the alternator is belt driven, this can sometimes happen relatively soon after 100 000km, and the symptom is usually a flickering battery light. It’s much cheaper to repair the alternator than to replace it, and any decent auto-electrician should be able to do the job. You can also DIY the voltage regulator.
Other Things to Check
Air-Conditioning
If the AC doesn’t work, buyer beware! Sellers might claim that the system simply needs a regas, but more often than not this is a temporary fix for a more serious problem.
Weather stripping on the door
The rubber strip that lines the E46 coupe door frame has a habit of separating from its inner felt piece. It is possible to glue these back together, but unless the right product was used, it usually fails shortly after this. Once you’ve glued it once, if it fails again, the only option is to replace at a costly R6k per door.
[img=600x450]http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae291/BavariaM3/DIY pics/f737d2a3.jpg[/img]
Brake Ducting behind the front bumper
Sometimes these plastic brake ducts are missing, and this could be a sign of previous accident damage. It could equally just be a sign that the front bumper was resprayed and the shop was careless in reassembly. There are blank-off, push-in plugs at the end of the brake ducts. If these have been removed, the chances are that the previous owner drove the car in a manner where brake cooling became an issue.
Interior Mirror Fluid Leak
The oval interior rear-view mirror used in the E39 M5 an E46 M5 often develops a leak and this fluid can damage interior trim and leather. The mirror is extortionately expensive to replace, but thankfully there are repair options available from suppliers such as Mirror John: http://www.mirrorjohn.com
[img=600x450]http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/...0-75AE42F105BD-644-0000006474F2A7EC.jpg[/img]
Titan Shadow trim peeling/bubbling
The ‘Titan Shadow’ trim that was standard on most facelift M3s does not age well and starts to peel and bubble and generally look terrible. Replacing with genuine trim is more expensive that its worse, so best is to either have the trim wrapped or resprayed to a finish of your preference.
[img=600x450]http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w515/M3loon/121-1.jpg[/img]
Windscreen cowling and all exterior rubbers
These are old cars and you want to keep an eye out for flaking rubber around the windows, and the cracking in the cowling that sits below the windscreen wipers.The cowling is not hugely expensive, but the window rubbers are quite pricey.
Airbag Recalls
The Takata airbag debacle affects the E46 generation and in South Africa there is an open campaign to replace both the drivers’ an passenger airbags. It is completely free and needs to be done at a BMW dealer, but for your own safety please get this done if it has not been addressed.
Things to Remember
Its a high performance car, and therefore is should be assumed that it was driven hard its entire life. Therefore, 100 000km on an M3 is quite different to 100 000km on a normal 3 series. For this reason, wear and tear items need replacement sooner than on a car which does not have the same high performance pretense. I have also listed quite a large scope of maintenance considerations, and that is not to say that all of these items will be necessary immediately and at the same time. I am simply setting the context for what the maintenance reality is likely to be over time. But when all is said and done, once you take care of a few key maintenance items, it really is a brilliant car to own.
Further Reading
M3Forum E46 M3 Maintenance Thread
[img=789x544]https://image.ibb.co/doX9D5/IMG_7162_Edit.jpg[/img]
There is a strong argument to be made that for the money, one cannot buy a better driver’s car than a BMW E46 M3. Of course, this is a matter of opinion subject to ones personal desires, but if you yearn for an exciting and engaging sports car that is naturally aspirated, rear wheel driven, with a manual gearbox, an E46 M3 is one of the best options. Fortunately and unfortunately they are all at least 11 years old now and therefore can be bought for a relatively affordable price. Do not be fooled though, as this invariable implies that you inherit a costly maintenance backlog from the previous owner(s) as they more than likely have driven the car hard and only done basic servicing and work when absolutely necessary. There are also some known areas of failure that present serious risk, and if you want to own the car you should seriously consider doing the preventative work to prevent very costly breakdowns. This guide will discuss the maintenance realities of buying and owning a used E46 M3 and how to build your expectations and budget around these realities.
[img=789x544]https://image.ibb.co/crfwt5/IMG_7203_Edit.jpg[/img]
Buying Advice
There are 2 sets of fundamentals to choose from when deciding on your purchase.
- Body Style: Coupe or Convertible
- Gearbox: Manual or SMG (single clutch)
General Cost of Ownership
It’s very important not to be naive about this, and manage your expectations accordingly. The general cost of ownership is high. An E46 M3 is a performance car and it will have been driven much harder during its life as compared to a regular car. This means that wear and tear components, particularly brakes, suspension and drivetrain will need to be addressed sooner than that of say, a vanilla 3 series. Further, many of the parts are M3-specifc, so they are low volume and therefore the cost is high. This is known as the “M-Tax”.
The silver lining of this is that the risk areas of the car have been well documented so it's possible to make a calculated cost projection of what you are in for when purchasing one. Unless the previous owner has detailed records proving otherwise, you should assume that only the bare-minimum has been done to keep the car running. Part of buying the right car is piecing together the history of the car and appraising it sufficiently to understand the full scope of work needed if you go ahead with a purchase. Assuming you do things properly, the minimum you should expect to spend on a newly purchased M3 is probably around R50k, and this figure can easily become R100k.
Fundamentals to Check
The usual rules for buying any used car apply:
- Check condition of the exterior
- Check condition of the interior
- Check for signs of accident history
- Check for Full Service History - BMWFSH on an M car is preferred for future resale value
Key Risk Areas
For peace of mind, I strongly recommend getting the following risk areas remedied on any newly purchased E46 M3. Failures in these areas are extremely well documented and it can be considered a matter of “when, not if”.
Valve Clearances
Due to the high revving nature of the S54, the valve-train system uses mechanical rockers to operate the valves. The clearance between the rocker and the cam shafts are determined by a shim that sits on top of the valve retainer. Over time, wear on various items such as the shim, rocker, valve stem or cam results in the clearances changing gradually over time. Hence, these clearances need to be checked and adjusted. Despite it being an Inspection II service item, BMW SA dealers do not do this as it is a very labour intensive process that requires great attention to detail. Unless otherwise proven (invoice), it therefore should be assumed that E46 M3s in South Africa have not had valve clearances checked and adjusted.
This is a potential risk to the engine as it can impact engine performance and even cause damage to the engine if the clearances are far from the allowed specification. To have your S54 running smoothly and properly, it is highly recommended to have this job done. It’s a finicky process where it is easy to make a mistake, so it’s worth choosing someone who is meticulous to do this job properly.
VANOS
The BMW variable valve timing system is known as VANOS and it has several points of failure on the S54 that either degrade engine performance, or can cause catastrophic engine damage. The areas that need to be addressed are:
- VANOS Seal Degradation
- VANOS Spline Rattle
- VANOS Solenoid Failure
- Exhaust Cam Hub tab Failure
All possible VANOS failures in one
Beisans Systems VANOS Assessment and Solution
Broken Hub Tabs
In order to have the S54 performing at factory specification and to avoid dangerous hub tab failure, the full Beisan VANOS remedial work should be done as a de-risking measure.
Connecting Rod Bearings
The S54 was the first engine that made use of BMW M’s ‘high revving’ concept. As such, it has an intoxicating 8000rpm redline which delivers a highly exciting driving experience. Unfortunately, a consequence of this is that the connecting rod bearings inevitably wear out. This is actually the case on all of the BMW high revving engines (S54, S65, S85) as all of them experience rod bearing failure at some point.
Predicting rod bearing failure is not an exact science. Some engines make it past 200 000km with no issues, others have spun a bearing at 85000km. It has been theorized that the variation in rod bearing longevity has a lot to do with the fact that 10W-60 oil is used in the engine, and therefore the car needs to be driven very gently until oil is up to operating tempareture. Unfortunately not all owners are as sympathetic as necessary, and this could possibly account for the 'early' failure of the rod bearings. When the rod bearings fail, the outcome is often a ruined crankshaft accompanied by other damage to the engine. In most cases, a full bottom-end rebuild is required which is very expensive. In severe cases, the bearing actually “bites” and breaks the conrod, followed by a big hole to the side of the block.
Spun Rod Bearing causes head damage
One can do oil analysis, but this is only useful when done over time, as you need to compare the results and observe how they change. Blackstone Labs in the US do have recorded ’S54 wear averages’ which can be used as a benchmark for a once-off oil analysis, so that is an option too.
My personal opinion on this is that the risk begins at roughly 100 000km, and rises quickly as the mileage approaches 150 000km, after which I would say it’s a necessity. This is not to say that it is guaranteed that the bearings will fail, but the cost of changing rod bearings before they fail is far lower than repairing or replacing the engine after they fail. This in itself is a compelling argument to rather treat this issue preventatively with the added bonus of having full confidence in the reliability of the engine going forward.
“Subframe” Cracks
Additional Reading
DriveTribe - Achillies Heel: BMW E46 M3 Subframe
M3Forum: Subframe / RACP - Best Repair Tips and Tricks
Perhaps one of the most publicised and pervasive issues of the E46 M3 is that of ‘rear subframe cracks’. The name is misleading, as the rear subframe is not what develops cracks, but rather the Rear Axle Carrier Panel (RACP) to which the rear subframe is mounted. This issue is inevitable on all E46 M3s, and almost every E46 M3 already has these cracks, the owners are simply unaware. This due to the fact that (1) you need to know where to look, (2) the cracks are often hidden beneath the subframe mounts, and (3) usually when the RACP is visually inspected, an accumulation of road dirt and grime hides the early stages of RACP cracks. One needs to clean away the dirt to properly check the condition.
Here is a video from Redish Motorsport on how to check: [video=youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaTYBaMpUtE&t=9s[/video]
Unfortunately, the RACP of the E46 is just not strong enough for the high-torque application of the M3. Further, M3’s are typically driven hard which means that the RACP inevitably develops cracks. The general concensus is that once the cracks go beyond a point, the rate at which they spread increases as the RACP has become weakened. If left untreated, the damage can become so severe that the entire RACP has to be replaced.
[video=youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH1MqZ3ncMQ[/video]
Over the years, the discussion about how to fix cracks on the RACP has evolved. Initially, it was agreed that dropping the entire subframe and welding in reinforcement plates onto the bottom axle carrier panel was sufficent. When BMW finally acknowlegded the issue as part of class action settlement in the US, they either used an injection of structural foam in to the lower sections of the RACP or replaced the entire RACP. More recent discoveries have helped us understand that the issue is not simply cracks on the axel carrier panel underneath the car, but also that panel separating from the rest of the chassis.
Possible Remedies
- Repair cracks and Weld Reinforcement (Redish) Plates
- Repair cracks Weld in top mounted reinforcements (VinceBar)
The most recent discussions have concluded that neither the bottom reinforcement plates nor the structural foam (epoxy) are sufficient as they merely redistribute load to other parts of the RACP which then crack. Further, the top mounts that sit below the rear seat and boot floor also commonly develop cracks. Therefore the more recent consensus for a true, sustainable solution is to combine bottom reinforcement plates with a top mount repair and top mount reinforcement. Redish Motorsport are known to have the most comprehensively developed bottom reinforcement plates, and the most popular "stealth" option for top mount repair and reinforcement is the VinceBar. The VinceBar helps to improve the connection of the rear axle carrier panel to the rest of the chassis, as well as redistribute the load created by the drivetrain to stronger parts of the car.
I recommend watching a few videos on the Redish Motorsport channel to learn about the bottom side plate repair. Here are some good threads documenting the VinceBar top structural reinforcement and how it solves more recently discovered subframe / RACP problems.
The VinceBar
VinceBar Kit that doesn't require Welding
[img=789x544]https://image.ibb.co/nDpd6Q/IMG_7165.jpg[/img]
Maintenance Considerations going forward
Wear and Tear Items
Once the key risk areas are taken care, E46 M3 maintenance is similar to most other BMWs of its age. You should expect to replace several wear and tear items above 100 000km that might not be immediately obvious. Between 100k and 150k (km), you can probably expect the following:
Drive Train
Engine and Gbox Mounts
Exhaust Mounts
Constant Pressure Valve
Propshaft Flex Disc and Centre Support Bearing. If ths U-joints have developed play, then the entire prop needs to be replaced (R14k)
Gear shifter bushes
Clutch (possibly flywheel too)
Diff Seals
Accessory Drive
Belts and Pulleys
Brakes & Suspension
Brake discs and pads
Dampers (shocks and struts)
Front Lower control arm bushings
Rear trailing arm bushings
Rear trailing arm balljoints
Fluids
Engine Oil (10W-60 that meets BMW M specifications)
Brake Fluid
Coolant
Power Steering Fluid
Gearbox Fluid (BMW MTF-LT2)
Rear Differential Fluid (OEM fluid with Friction Modifier booster)
Power Steering and VANOS Hoses
This is one that is not often spoken about, but almost every M3 I have seen has sweating on the high pressure power steering hoses. These have a habit of bursting, and can leak oil on the road which could cause an accident. The power steering hose cannot be repaired due to its complex curves and most hydraulic hose repair shops do not have the jigs for the successful repair. Expensive as it is (R5k), the path is Genuine BMW only. The high pressure pipe for the VANOS external accumulator can also burst on earlier models, spraying out voluminous amounts of oil in a very short period.
Cooling System
BMW cooling systems are notorious for premature failure. The liberal use of plastic components leads to early failure of several cooling components which result in an engine overheat. In most overheat scenarios, the head gasket requires replacement, but in some cases the head could also be damaged. The weak cooling system is probably the most referenced risk area on non-M E46s, but thankfully due to the motorsport application of the M3, the cooling system is a bit more robust and reliable. From what I have seen, the waterpump and thermostat are most often replaced, but I would still considering having the radiator and pipes all replaced as well by about 150 000km. The viscous fan blade also have a habit of becoming brittle over time and exploding. If this happens, it can do serious damage to other components such as the radiator and bonnet/hood. It’s a cheap enough part to replace preventatively.
Alternator Bearings and Voltage Regulator
At some point the alternator voltage regulator and bearings will wear out, causing your battery to drain. Because the S54 is high revving, and the alternator is belt driven, this can sometimes happen relatively soon after 100 000km, and the symptom is usually a flickering battery light. It’s much cheaper to repair the alternator than to replace it, and any decent auto-electrician should be able to do the job. You can also DIY the voltage regulator.
Other Things to Check
Air-Conditioning
If the AC doesn’t work, buyer beware! Sellers might claim that the system simply needs a regas, but more often than not this is a temporary fix for a more serious problem.
Weather stripping on the door
The rubber strip that lines the E46 coupe door frame has a habit of separating from its inner felt piece. It is possible to glue these back together, but unless the right product was used, it usually fails shortly after this. Once you’ve glued it once, if it fails again, the only option is to replace at a costly R6k per door.
[img=600x450]http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae291/BavariaM3/DIY pics/f737d2a3.jpg[/img]
Brake Ducting behind the front bumper
Sometimes these plastic brake ducts are missing, and this could be a sign of previous accident damage. It could equally just be a sign that the front bumper was resprayed and the shop was careless in reassembly. There are blank-off, push-in plugs at the end of the brake ducts. If these have been removed, the chances are that the previous owner drove the car in a manner where brake cooling became an issue.
Interior Mirror Fluid Leak
The oval interior rear-view mirror used in the E39 M5 an E46 M5 often develops a leak and this fluid can damage interior trim and leather. The mirror is extortionately expensive to replace, but thankfully there are repair options available from suppliers such as Mirror John: http://www.mirrorjohn.com
[img=600x450]http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/...0-75AE42F105BD-644-0000006474F2A7EC.jpg[/img]
Titan Shadow trim peeling/bubbling
The ‘Titan Shadow’ trim that was standard on most facelift M3s does not age well and starts to peel and bubble and generally look terrible. Replacing with genuine trim is more expensive that its worse, so best is to either have the trim wrapped or resprayed to a finish of your preference.
[img=600x450]http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w515/M3loon/121-1.jpg[/img]
Windscreen cowling and all exterior rubbers
These are old cars and you want to keep an eye out for flaking rubber around the windows, and the cracking in the cowling that sits below the windscreen wipers.The cowling is not hugely expensive, but the window rubbers are quite pricey.
Airbag Recalls
The Takata airbag debacle affects the E46 generation and in South Africa there is an open campaign to replace both the drivers’ an passenger airbags. It is completely free and needs to be done at a BMW dealer, but for your own safety please get this done if it has not been addressed.
Things to Remember
Its a high performance car, and therefore is should be assumed that it was driven hard its entire life. Therefore, 100 000km on an M3 is quite different to 100 000km on a normal 3 series. For this reason, wear and tear items need replacement sooner than on a car which does not have the same high performance pretense. I have also listed quite a large scope of maintenance considerations, and that is not to say that all of these items will be necessary immediately and at the same time. I am simply setting the context for what the maintenance reality is likely to be over time. But when all is said and done, once you take care of a few key maintenance items, it really is a brilliant car to own.
Further Reading
M3Forum E46 M3 Maintenance Thread
[img=789x544]https://image.ibb.co/doX9D5/IMG_7162_Edit.jpg[/img]
raise:
